Soon to be pimped out 2k2 Intimidator. Come give me some more suggestions!

[IRStookmySpyder]

I have been building a 2k2 Intimidator for about 2-3 months now, and finally have a working mostly stock Intimidator built. I want to end up making this 2k2 really fast, air efficient, and look good. Below is a list of parts that in the end I want on this 2k2.

*Alias LPR
*Dye Hyper 2 regulator
Dye Ultralite barrel
Frenzy 127.4 board
*Hybrid Intimidator AK Knob Hammer Adjuster 06
Hybrid Intimidator Hedlok K2 Klamp Feed Neck
*Hybrid Intimidator Ultra High Flow Barb/Hose Kit
Hybrid Nude Grips
*Hybrid Joint Rail
Hybrid Quarter Turn Bleeder ASA 07
Lurker eigenram
*Stock 2k2 Body
*Stock 2k2 Bolt
*Stock 2k2 Ram sleeve
Stock 2k5 Trigger frame
Stock Empire Front Block

...let me know what you guys think I should change on this list. Thanks again.

* = purchases already

[jrmiller]

2k5 frame and empire front block. and i would get a cp 1 piece insted of the freak.

[IRStookmySpyder]

jrmiller- Aren't the Empire and 2k2 front block the same? And for the barrel I am still deciding. I am going to be doing tournaments so I am not sure if I want to have a 1 piece barrel or not. But the CP one piece is the same as the stock Assassins barrel pretty much, and I already have that.

[jrmiller]

the empire front block is the same as the alias just you dont have to tap the body to use it.

[IRStookmySpyder]

jrmiller- Oh, nice. Then I will put that up there now. Thanks for telling me that.

[outrageous]

yeah. change that ASA. I just bought one and after a day of play my thumb, where you turn the knob/stick thing blistered up and hurts like a *****.

[IRStookmySpyder]

outrageous- So it's really hard to turn on/off?

[outrageous]

It's not hard, but annoying to have your thumb throbbing in pain. I'm gonna try to trade mine for a CP or something.

[IRStookmySpyder]

outrageous- Oh, if I don;t get this one I think I will get a Smart Parts or CP one.

[outrageous]

SP = gay.

CP = agg.

/thread.

[IRStookmySpyder]

outrageous- Lmao, I was just saying it because I would get it for free from a friend who just bought a CP one. I am not sure yet. Is everything else good?

[outrageous]

I'd get a virtue/tadao board instead of the WAS. But then again I'm biased. I've never used a WAS. but my Lucky Un1tec, and M5 are uber easy to deal with and program. Along with the virtue I've played with before.

[IRStookmySpyder]

outrageous- Oh, I forgot to change the WAS board, the WAS is in my 2k2 frame right now, but when I get a 2k5 I will get a different board.

[outrageous]

I recommend the tadao or un1tec. w/ DM chip w/ bukkake cheater board. It's fast and fun to play with and scare others with.

[IRStookmySpyder]

outrageous- Are all of those boards tournament legal? Because I think that my friend looked at a Tadao for his Ion and it wasn't tournament legal.

[outrageous]

its legal. just as long as its 15bps capped.

[IRStookmySpyder]

outrageous- OK. I was just looking at one new and they look to be a little out of my price range, at $140, and the Lucky you can't get brand new, but if I could it would be like $45 plus the DM4/5 chip which is another $60 new. Are there any cheap boards that are good, or do the Lucky or Tadao boards big difference in resale value?

[IRStookmySpyder]

Any other suggestions?

[jenious]

I'd say get a better board than WAS 2.9

The frenzy 12x.xx boards are really nice and super cheap.
If you can snag a lucky board do that.

[IRStookmySpyder]

jenious- Wouldn't getting a Lucky board be bad though since they aren't located in the US, so if something goes wrong it will take a while to get fixed? And how much should I pay for the latest version of the frenzy, and what is the latest version?

[outrageous]

you can pick up the Lucky board for all of $40 and a chip for all of an insane price of $25-$30

[IRStookmySpyder]

outrageous- OK, do they use the LCD display or just LED?

[jrmiller]

they are led. :tup: nice boards from what i have heard.

[crankwalk]

Hello there.. it looks like you already bought the Empire poppet. In this case, you can't use an Alias ram sleeve, you'll have to pick up a 2k2 sleeve. The Empire poppet, even though having the white delrin head like an Alias poppet, is designed to work in 2k2 sleeves.

what are you looking for in a board, and have you considered a 2k5 LCD Frenzy?

[IRStookmySpyder]

jrmiller- thank you

crankwalk- I already own a 2k2 ram sleeve, and when I upgrade to the Alias ram sleeve later I will also switch out the poppit then too. As for a board I am basically looking for a cheap board that has a tournament lock for semi auto, ramping, is easy to switch modes, and is relatively cheap. Thanks for the help guys.

[thanewguy]

cant wait to get to see this thing done. anyways get a lucky if you can, or get a cheap virtue board if you can fins one.

[IRStookmySpyder]

Ya, it will probably be a while before it is all done, but it will get done eventually.

[crankwalk]

As for a board I am basically looking for a cheap board that has a tournament lock for semi auto, ramping, is easy to switch modes, and is relatively cheap. Thanks for the help guys.In that case I would still recommend a Frenzy 127.x board - you can find them as low as $50 these days.

[IRStookmySpyder]

crankwalk- Does the Frenzy have all of those options? Thanks for the help bud.

[crankwalk]

Yes check the sticky for the 127.4 manual to see the options on the board

http://www.intimidatorowners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26

and for tourney lock you have to short some pins on the board

[IRStookmySpyder]

crankwalk- Thanks so much for all of the help you have given me with this. I think that I am just going to pick up one of those Frenzy's once I get the 2k5/Alias trigger frame. Once again thanks. Anything else I should change?

[crankwalk]

No problem.. just remember if you pick up any Alias style board, you'll need to use an Alias main/battery/noid harness, alias membrane pad, and alias eye harness to use with your existing 2pc eyes (or a pair of 06 eyes if you do not have eyes)

[jrmiller]

i use a 127.5c and i love it. very easy to use. nice modes :tup:

[IRStookmySpyder]

crankwalk- thanks for the information buddy.

jrmiller- thanks for letting me know that it is easy to use. I am going to get one of them once I get the 2k5/Alias trigger frame.

[IRStookmySpyder]

What trigger do you guys recommend that I buy when I get an 2k5/Alias trigger frame? Thanks for any help.

[crankwalk]

I personally like Assassins triggers. There are other suggestions in this thread:

http://www.intimidatorowners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=178

[IRStookmySpyder]

OK, thanks. I will have to see if I can find someone with that trigger at my field so that I can try it out.

[IRStookmySpyder]

What barrel or barrel kit do you guys recommend that I get? I will only be using 2 or 3 different kinds of paint. The main stuff I would be using is a lower grade paint. Thanks for any help.

[crankwalk]

Personally I'd recommend Dye Ultralite with .692 back

[IRStookmySpyder]

You really think I should get one of them? My friend has one on his Ion and it is light, but I wasn't sure if I should really buy one for myself or not. Would it be a smart move to buy a used one so that I don't spend so much on a new one, because they are $100?

[crankwalk]

absolutely buy a used one, and save yourself some cash. buying ultralites new can be pricy as you've seen

[IRStookmySpyder]

crankwalk- Ya, my friend got off lucky and he has a rich mommy and daddy that bought it and mostly everything else for him, but for me, my parents aren't that giving. Thank you for the suggestion. How much should I pay for a used ultralite with autococker threading? Thanks again.

[crankwalk]

If price is an issue, consider a CP 1-piece .693 then. They are $45 new from customproducts.us so you could probably find a cheaper one in BST

as for ultralites, probably $50-$60 used

[IRStookmySpyder]

crankwalk- Isn't the CP one piece the same as the Bob Long Assassins barrel? And price isn't really an issue, just wanted to make sure that I wasn't going to pay too much for one. Thanks for all of the help.

[crankwalk]

Yes its basically the same because Bob's Assassins barrels were made by CP :D

[IRStookmySpyder]

crankwalk- OK, that is what I thought, but wasn't positive. I think that I will save up for a new feedneck, then start to save for the UL. Thanks for all of the help with this. Is there anything else that I should change on my list.

[crankwalk]

everything else looks okay :tup:

[IRStookmySpyder]

crankwalk- OK, thank you for making my list perfect. Now all I have to do is find a way to get money for all of these parts and I will be set.

[thanewguy]

used ones are fine, but look on pbn first for some good deals....

[IRStookmySpyder]

thanewguy- Ya, that is where I was planing to look for the barrel, seeing that IOG doesn't have many people selling barrels, and none selling UL's yet.

[Timmyfreek]

i would recomend a shocktech bolt.

[IRStookmySpyder]

Timmyfreak- I thought that the stock bolt is considered the best bolt for a Timmy?

[Timmyfreek]

well stock is lighter, however i have found that the shocktech with the tri-port venturies gives a flater shot then bolts with just one big hole in them, such as stock or evil. the wieght never gave me any problems, i was still able to run my lpr as low as 45psi.

[IRStookmySpyder]

Timmyfreak- The bolt doesn't sound bad at all, but I think that I am just going to keep stock until maybe the last upgrade then up it. But one question, how do you tell what your LPR is set at, because I have the gauge on the side of the front block, but I thought that was for the HPR, not the LPR? Thanks for any help on this question.

[Timmyfreek]

nope, the gauge (if you only have one, as most do) is for the lpr. the inline hpr doesnt need a guage as the out put will depend on what you need to get the desiered fps.

[IRStookmySpyder]

Timmyfreak- thank you for telling me that or I would have been turning my HPR up until I broke something. What should I set my LPR at when I have ultra-flow barbs, ANS ram, stock bolt, Alias LPR, Hybrid adjustable ram cap? Thanks for the help.

[crankwalk]

http://www.intimidatorowners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19

Good instructions here.. but I would start off around 75psi

[IRStookmySpyder]

crankwalk- I read that before. Is the LPR you sold me set at 75? Thanks.

[Timmyfreek]

just set it by the gauge, in/up out/down, till the guage is at the correct psi.

[IRStookmySpyder]

Timmyfreak- I know, I was just wondering if he set it at 75 or not.

[crankwalk]

No it shouldn't be set at anything, if I remember correctly I backed it out flush. If its not, then back the screw out and follow the instructions, turning the screw clockwise until you hit around 75psi on the gauge.

[IRStookmySpyder]

It was in a little bit further then flush. I will set it later today if I can get it to stop leaking.

[Sl@sh]

if you're looking for a lighter bolt i believe the VP teflon bolt is lighter than the stock (please correct me if im wrong) and personally i like it better. never needs lube, no o-rings, and they are just n ice and subtle-looking i think. they are a bit more expensive than most bolts but they are very well designed.

[IRStookmySpyder]

Sl@sh- I thought that VP went out of business? Let me know, thanks.

[crankwalk]

IRStookmySpyder: VP did go out of business

[IRStookmySpyder]

crankwalk- so how would I buy a VP bolt? I haven't seen any for sale in the BST on any off the forums I use. Thanks for the help.

[crankwalk]

at this point its a rare bolt.. BST would be the only place that i know of

[IRStookmySpyder]

crankwalk- I figured as much. I think that I am just going to stick with a stock bolt unless I find a VP bolt for cheap. Thanks.

[Sl@sh]

crap i forgot they went out of business. sorry man, didnt mean to give you false info there. other than that i would stick with the stock bolt. they are among the best so you cant go wrong.

[IRStookmySpyder]

Sl@sh- it's all good. Thanks for your thoughts.