battlechaser
02-16-2009, 03:02 PM
This modification requires the use of power tools, if you are under 18, it might be an idea to have a parent or guardian present to aid you in performing this task. Myself or the Intimidator Owners Group will not be held responsible for any injury or damage incurred by following this tutorial.
So you've picked up a sweet little 2k2, or you're 2k5ing and you don't want the hassle of tapping the body for an Alias front block. But low and behold your regs are swaying like a palm tree in a hurricane.
There are two culprits that cause this, the first, which I unfortunately don't have a pic for, is when you either lose, or break the little plastic collar that centers the front block screw. The other is, that the 2k2 screws are slightly too long for the application. You could use a 006 oring or a washer to keep tension on the block to stop it from moving, but on blocks like the Trinity, where they literally took the back "oring" section from a 2k2 and the front directly from a 2k5 (with some differnt outer milling) you run into a problem when you attempt to screw on the barb. This tutorial will help you eliminate the problem for good.
What you're going to need is:
http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o453/iamthebattlechaser/2k2frontblocktutorial/2k2fb2.jpg
Safety glasses
A dremel or similar rotory tool
BLUE Loctite - Caution, RED/GREEN Loctite are PERMENANT, USE ONLY BLUE
Paper towel
A 006 oring
Your stock 2k2 Front Block Screw
2k2/2k5 Trigger Frame Mounting Screw (you can obtain these from crankwalk here) (http://www.intimidatorowners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5) - You probably don't need it, but it's nice to have one in case you screw up
Just a suggestion, if you don't have a work bench, or a desk to work on, I went out and bought a nice large white bath towel, it's nice because everything stands out, parts generally stay put once they're laid out, and if you drop something, it normally doesn't bounce or roll away.
First, take the 006 Oring, and slip it onto the end of the 2k2 front block screw, like so. This is approximately the amount of material you're going to have to remove from the end for a flush fit.
http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o453/iamthebattlechaser/2k2frontblocktutorial/2k2fb3.jpg
Now, in case you're wondering, the grip screws have the same threading as the front block one. So that isn't an issue. Now, don your saftey goggles/glasses/Old paintball mask you don't mind being bombarded with shrapnel (seriously, use safety glasses), and cut the grip screw to the start of the oring, be careful not to nick the threads of the screw, because it could cause stripping/cross-threading. bevel the edge of the screw if you like.
When you're done, the new screw should look like this;
http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o453/iamthebattlechaser/2k2frontblocktutorial/2k2fb4.jpg
Left: Modified Trigger Frame Mounting Screw, Right: Factory Front Block Screw
Now, as you're re-installing your front block, be sure to have some paper towel nearby, loctite is very runny in liquid form, and can make quite a mess if you're not careful. Apply the loctite to the modified screw, making sure to coat the threads evenly, you don't need very much, just so the bottom threads are coated. Screw the front block tightly in place, but don't over-torque it, as you can strip the threads in the front block. Follow the instructions on the loctite bottle, letting it cure before use.
http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o453/iamthebattlechaser/2k2frontblocktutorial/2k2fb1.jpg
Factory Front Block Screw
http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o453/iamthebattlechaser/2k2frontblocktutorial/2k2fb5.jpg
Modified Front Block Screw
You've probably noticed, this makes for a minimal height difference when it's in the marker, but it's just enough that once you tighten it down, all the torque holding it in is on the head of the screw, not relying on the shaft to try and center it, eliminating the need for the plastic collar.
And that does it! Enjoy your rock solid, wobble-free gun!
So you've picked up a sweet little 2k2, or you're 2k5ing and you don't want the hassle of tapping the body for an Alias front block. But low and behold your regs are swaying like a palm tree in a hurricane.
There are two culprits that cause this, the first, which I unfortunately don't have a pic for, is when you either lose, or break the little plastic collar that centers the front block screw. The other is, that the 2k2 screws are slightly too long for the application. You could use a 006 oring or a washer to keep tension on the block to stop it from moving, but on blocks like the Trinity, where they literally took the back "oring" section from a 2k2 and the front directly from a 2k5 (with some differnt outer milling) you run into a problem when you attempt to screw on the barb. This tutorial will help you eliminate the problem for good.
What you're going to need is:
http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o453/iamthebattlechaser/2k2frontblocktutorial/2k2fb2.jpg
Safety glasses
A dremel or similar rotory tool
BLUE Loctite - Caution, RED/GREEN Loctite are PERMENANT, USE ONLY BLUE
Paper towel
A 006 oring
Your stock 2k2 Front Block Screw
2k2/2k5 Trigger Frame Mounting Screw (you can obtain these from crankwalk here) (http://www.intimidatorowners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5) - You probably don't need it, but it's nice to have one in case you screw up
Just a suggestion, if you don't have a work bench, or a desk to work on, I went out and bought a nice large white bath towel, it's nice because everything stands out, parts generally stay put once they're laid out, and if you drop something, it normally doesn't bounce or roll away.
First, take the 006 Oring, and slip it onto the end of the 2k2 front block screw, like so. This is approximately the amount of material you're going to have to remove from the end for a flush fit.
http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o453/iamthebattlechaser/2k2frontblocktutorial/2k2fb3.jpg
Now, in case you're wondering, the grip screws have the same threading as the front block one. So that isn't an issue. Now, don your saftey goggles/glasses/Old paintball mask you don't mind being bombarded with shrapnel (seriously, use safety glasses), and cut the grip screw to the start of the oring, be careful not to nick the threads of the screw, because it could cause stripping/cross-threading. bevel the edge of the screw if you like.
When you're done, the new screw should look like this;
http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o453/iamthebattlechaser/2k2frontblocktutorial/2k2fb4.jpg
Left: Modified Trigger Frame Mounting Screw, Right: Factory Front Block Screw
Now, as you're re-installing your front block, be sure to have some paper towel nearby, loctite is very runny in liquid form, and can make quite a mess if you're not careful. Apply the loctite to the modified screw, making sure to coat the threads evenly, you don't need very much, just so the bottom threads are coated. Screw the front block tightly in place, but don't over-torque it, as you can strip the threads in the front block. Follow the instructions on the loctite bottle, letting it cure before use.
http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o453/iamthebattlechaser/2k2frontblocktutorial/2k2fb1.jpg
Factory Front Block Screw
http://i343.photobucket.com/albums/o453/iamthebattlechaser/2k2frontblocktutorial/2k2fb5.jpg
Modified Front Block Screw
You've probably noticed, this makes for a minimal height difference when it's in the marker, but it's just enough that once you tighten it down, all the torque holding it in is on the head of the screw, not relying on the shaft to try and center it, eliminating the need for the plastic collar.
And that does it! Enjoy your rock solid, wobble-free gun!