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View Full Version : How to disassemble a BL Gear Drive ASA.


KeenDean
03-26-2009, 02:09 PM
Disassembly of a Bob Long Gear Drive ASA.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n13/KeenDean_2006/DSC00407.jpg

I wanted to do this step by step guide sometime ago, but never got around to doing it. Anyway, when I was doing my Shocktech Alias re-build project, I had to dismantle my Gear Drive ASA into it’s aluminium components. I asked for advice from various sources, but with no real luck. So being the world class maintenance engineer that I am, I decided to “have a crack” at simply taking it apart without any guidance/instruction.

Hopefully this guide will help out other forum members who find themselves in the same situation where they need to send their ASA away for re-anodizing.

Disclaimer:
1. This is only a step by step guide, as to how I approached and carried out the disassembly of my own ASA. If you damage any components of your ASA whilst following this guide, I am in no way responsible for your error. If you do not feel competent enough to carry out this task, then contact a reputable tech centre, and have them do it for you.

2. I apologise in advance for the quality of the photographs, as I was using my cell phone.

Tools Required.
x1 1/8 Allen Wrench.
x1 Fine nosed needle pliers.
x2 Dental picks.
x1 Cir-clip pliers.

1. Insert the 1/8 allen wrench into the macro line fitting of the ASA. Turn anti-clockwise to unscrew the macro fitting. Once removed, place to one side. NOTE: The collar on the macro fitting acts as a guide shaft/post for the end twist cap of the ASA.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n13/KeenDean_2006/DSC00408.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n13/KeenDean_2006/DSC00409.jpg

2. Lift off the end twist cap, and place to one side. You will now see a small brass gear poking through the front end housing of the ASA.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n13/KeenDean_2006/DSC00410.jpg

3. The brass gear can be lifted clear of the housing, and placed to one side. NOTE: The brass gear shaft has two identical gears, one at either end. Make a mental note that the end that has a machined recess is the end that goes into the housing during re-assembly.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n13/KeenDean_2006/DSC00412.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n13/KeenDean_2006/DSC00411.jpg

4. Turn the ASA over to look inside the opening where the bottle screws into. You will see a brass disc with a hole in the centre, and two slots either side. This disc is NOT threaded, and therefore does not need to be unscrewed to remove. It is simply held in place with o-rings that also act as a seal. To remove this disc you can either prise the disc out by using the two dental picks (pick points wedged under the disc, opposite from each other and then a side to side motion applied) or if you have some fine nosed needle pliers, these can be used to lift the disc free of the housing. Once removed, place to one side. NOTE: As you can see, the opposite side of the disc (when viewed from the ASA threads) shows the location of the o-ring seals.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n13/KeenDean_2006/DSC00414.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n13/KeenDean_2006/DSC00415.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n13/KeenDean_2006/DSC00416.jpg

5. Looking into the ASA threaded housing you will now see another brass disc, with a needle shaft poking through the centre. To remove this disc, simply turn the ASA over so that the disc is facing down. Then by placing something soft (like a mouse mat, or cloth over a table work surface) sharply tap the ASA housing down onto the surface. This should shock/jerk free the disc and allow it to drop out of the housing. You will notice on the reverse side of this disc, there is a raised surface. Make a mental note of the orientation of this disc when re-assembling. Place the removed disc to one side.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n13/KeenDean_2006/DSC00417.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n13/KeenDean_2006/DSC00418.jpg

6. Now turn the ASA towards you again, to look into the threaded section. You will clearly see a gear with a pin/shaft in the centre, and a retaining cir-clip. Remove the cir-clip, using the cir-clip pliers. WARNING: cir-clips have an element of spring tension when compressed. Be careful when removing cir-clips as they can spring free and fly off in any direction. So don’t loose the cir-clip. Once the cir-clip is removed, place it to one side. NOTE: As you look into the threaded housing from where you have just removed the cir-clip. The cir-clip was removed from the second location groove at the bottom of the housing. Make a mental note to ensure that during re-assembly, the cir-clip goes into the correct lower groove.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n13/KeenDean_2006/DSC00419.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n13/KeenDean_2006/DSC00420.jpg

7. You can now access the main drive gear. Now I could be awful and stop right here, and let you all work it out for yourselves. But that, although hilarious for me, may be very frustrating for you. So I’ll tell you. The gear must be un-screwed to be removed from the housing.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n13/KeenDean_2006/DSC00421.jpg

8. To do this, simply turn over the ASA to look at the front housing. Take the previously removed brass gear shaft, and insert into location hole in the front of the housing. By hand using your fingers, ensure the gear shaft has engaged the main drive gear by turning the gear shaft. With the gears correctly engaged, as you continue turning, the main gear located in the ASA threaded housing will unscrew. Eventually, it will become free from the housing, and fall out. However, it may be a little stubborn and get snagged on the walls of the threaded housing, so my need a little temptation with a dental pick to finally fall out.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n13/KeenDean_2006/DSC00422.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n13/KeenDean_2006/DSC00424.jpg

Congratulations. You have completely disassembled your gear drive ASA ready for re-anodizing. The only components necessary to send for anodizing are the end twist cap and the ASA housing.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n13/KeenDean_2006/DSC00425.jpg

Tips for re-assembly.

Re-assembly is the exact same operation, but obviously in reverse. Use DOW55 on the o-rings, and place some DOW55 on the teeth of the gears.

I hope this has been of use to all you budding tech heads?

LunchboxMischke
03-26-2009, 05:20 PM
u should trade the gear drive to me for a st on off and a drop any number 0-6 0 bein smallest

KeenDean
03-26-2009, 05:32 PM
Ha ha, my fellow ST comrade. But I LURVE :P my gear drive.

LunchboxMischke
03-26-2009, 05:45 PM
ive been wanting one for a while now

KeenDean
03-26-2009, 06:01 PM
Buy this... http://www.intimidatorowners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2902 and part it out. You'll definitely take the gear drive ASA and maybe a few other bits and pieces, and I'll take a few bits as well. Whats left can go up for sale as parts.

battlechaser
03-26-2009, 06:13 PM
Definitely a good DIY! :tup:!

Omega Ra
03-26-2009, 06:29 PM
Buy this... http://www.intimidatorowners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2902 and part it out. You'll definitely take the gear drive ASA and maybe a few other bits and pieces, and I'll take a few bits as well. Whats left can go up for sale as parts.

if you do that I'll take the 360 reg lol

mcsquid86
03-27-2009, 03:15 AM
Thanks a bunch..

Daigz525
03-27-2009, 02:10 PM
Hey Dean when you did this did you notice if you had any loctite holding in the bolt in step 1?

When I got my gear drive it leaked and Joe talked me through taking it apart and putting some loctite on it to stop the leak. Just wanted to know if you had the same issue...

KeenDean
03-27-2009, 02:22 PM
Yes. A loctite thread sealant was used. When I removed the macro fitting, I could see "disturbed" thread sealant on the threads.

When I re-assembled the fitting, I used some red loctite thread sealant. Then again, I use red loctite on all threads that are subjected to air pressure.

crankwalk
03-28-2009, 12:04 PM
Very cool! One heck of an article Dean, thanks for sharing this with all of us!

SparkyGT
03-29-2009, 07:03 AM
good job, hope mine dont leak ever :D