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Megatron
11-17-2007, 01:34 PM
guys, i want to have my ram sleeve on my alias ano'd......exactly how difficult is it to remove and re-install? I know i'll have to disconnect the hoses from the barbs and that is what is making me think twice....i had a nightkast cocker a few years back and i got a wild hair one day, and wanted to change the hoses on the front block from clear to black...i was successful but it took me 4 or 5 hours and a lot of choice words to slip the new black hose on the barbs..... any advice and/or instructions would be greatly appreciated :)

jrmiller
11-17-2007, 02:28 PM
looks to be very har to do but very easy. just take your time and do a good job.

crankwalk
11-17-2007, 03:46 PM
It is extremely easy. To make it even easier, CAREFULLY heat up the end of the hose at the barb, this will make it more malleable and easier to remove. To actually remove, just grab hold and pull straight, not at an angle (you risk breaking the barbs).

Once the front block and hose/barbs are off, you just need to remove the ram sleeve set screw, which uses, haha you guessed it, a 3/16" allen key - once the screw is out all you have to do is slide the sleeve out

Megatron
11-17-2007, 07:53 PM
ah, the ever elusive 3/16" allen key;).....what would you recommend using to heat the hose, a hair dryer, lighter, blow torch, lazer beam? Thanks for the advice guys:tup:

lopez17
11-17-2007, 08:29 PM
I just hit it real quick over a lighter. If you're getting it anodized a normal stock color you may be better off just getting a new sleeve.

Megatron
12-23-2007, 01:43 PM
well, this morning i decided that i would remove the ram sleeve from my alias for anodizing....i took crankwalk and lopez's advice to heat up the end of the hose before removing it from the ram sleeve's barbs.....well, instead of grabbing the end of the hose with my fingers and pulling off, i used a pair of needle nose pliers to softly grab the hose at the barb and tried to work it off....this was a bad idea, as my soft grip on the pliers allowed them to slip off the barb and onto the heated malleable hose, ultimately making a small tear in the hose....this is easily remedied by buying a length of hose and high flow barbs from crankwalk. but my confidence as an aspiring Timmy Tech took a hit.....anyway, in retrospect, wouldn't it have been easier to not remove the hose at all, but to just carefully remove the barbs instead? :confused:

KeenDean
12-23-2007, 02:54 PM
If you try to unscrew the barbs with the hose still attached, all you'll accomplish is to twist/kink the hose to the point that it'll resemble a twizzle stick.

I know it's a bind but you are better off removing the hoses as described previously. They can be a real b***h to remove but persevere and just be cautious.

To put hoses back on, I use boiling water as a way of sofetning the rubber hose. It's a trick I picked up from installing flexible hoses at work, and so far has never let me down. It's better than waving around a flame thrower.

Sorry to thread jack, but are the machined tollerances of any marker components altered if you re-anodise them? I know that the old anodised coating will be stripped back to bare metal then a new coat applied. But does this effect any important tollerances/dimensions. Just thinking about o-ring contact against machined surfaces, where if the tollerance is increased there will be an increased chance of leaks.

lopez17
12-23-2007, 09:26 PM
Yes the tolerances are affected. With some components it's something of a non-issue. Ram Sleeves and LPR's can be problematic if the tolerances go to hell in certain areas as a result of the part being left in the acid bath for too long. Usually if you use Dow 55 you can swell the o-ring to compensate.

Megatron
12-25-2007, 10:38 AM
i was rummaging through my tool box this morning and i found some left over hose from my nightkast cocker!!! Oh Joy!!!! I used the Mrs.' hairdryer to heat up the ends before installing onto my solenoid....it was quite easy....i'm going to send the ram sleeve and other parts to gruntbull for anodizing, and i trust he is professional enough to not affect the tolerances of the parts during the whole process:tup: Merry Christmas Gents!!!!

GOD
12-25-2007, 10:14 PM
Cockers use a smaller ID LP hose than timmy's so it's no where near as hard to attach the hoses as it is with a cocker provided you;re not using cocker hose...

Yes the tolerances are affected. With some components it's something of a non-issue. Ram Sleeves and LPR's can be problematic if the tolerances go to hell in certain areas as a result of the part being left in the acid bath for too long. Usually if you use Dow 55 you can swell the o-ring to compensate.

Good anodizers don't use acid baths, I don't remember exactly what it is but it only removes the layer of ano. So to prevent tolorance change, get your parts ano'd with some one who does it RIGHT. (Call ahead and ask.)

Megatron
12-29-2007, 04:35 PM
yes, the id of the cocker hose seemed a bit smaller than the timmy hose, but it shouldn't affect the markers performance right?

oh, by the way god, could you let the Saints win and the Vikings & Redskins lose tomorrow? Thanks form a true Saints fan!!!!:D