Chooie
07-04-2010, 01:09 AM
I would like to post with an alternate solution to the modified grip frame screw fix stickied in this forum. If your 2K2/etc. body has a hole whose thread has been completely worn away as mine had, due to the previous owner's failure to address the wobble when it first occurred, then this may just be the appropriate fix for you.
Tools and supplies that I used:
- Vertical mill equipped with a vice with soft jaws
- 5/16-24 tap and appropriately sized drill bit
- Jacobs chuck for the mill
- 5/16-24 by 1/4" long set screw
- Loctite 242 (Blue)
1. Completely strip the body of all parts, including the ram sleeve (I left the feedneck in place, since it did not get in the way with the particular Kurt vice on the mill).
2. Using a level, clamp down on the body in the vice so the underside of the body (with the hole we need to fix) is facing up, and is parallel to the mill table.
3. With the drill bit installed, center the hole to be repaired beneath the bit. You can usually eyeball this with good accuracy, just make sure you're perfectly centered before you fire up and begin cutting.
4. Set your depth stop on the mill so you do not accidentally go too far through the body and damage the other side of the chamber where the front block connects.
5. Fire up the mill, and drill your hole - use some cutting oil to help clear chips and protect the tool and work. There will only be a little debris unless like me, you had a screw seized in the hole and have to use a carbide bit to drill through it =\.
5. With the 5/16-24 tap inserted into an appropriate tap handle, tap the hole, again using cutting fluid and a chip clearing method (1 revolution forward, and then back half a turn) until through the thickness of the body.
6. Clean up the edges of the hole, both inside and out, with a deburring tool. This will prevent you from slicing the o-rings on the front block when inserted into the body.
7. Wash the entire body with dish soap and water to get rid of all chips and cutting fluid. Dry thoroughly, and reassemble the gun, using a 5/16-24x1/4" cup point set screw in the new hole. This will self-center on the existing hole in the front block, and hold securely. Loctite 242 on the threads is optional.
Here is what you wind up with - a solid mount that you can back out enough to free the front block, while leaving it in the body. You also don't need to remove the whole grip frame to pull the front block, or remove the barb.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/chooie/37b1fdf8.jpg
Tools and supplies that I used:
- Vertical mill equipped with a vice with soft jaws
- 5/16-24 tap and appropriately sized drill bit
- Jacobs chuck for the mill
- 5/16-24 by 1/4" long set screw
- Loctite 242 (Blue)
1. Completely strip the body of all parts, including the ram sleeve (I left the feedneck in place, since it did not get in the way with the particular Kurt vice on the mill).
2. Using a level, clamp down on the body in the vice so the underside of the body (with the hole we need to fix) is facing up, and is parallel to the mill table.
3. With the drill bit installed, center the hole to be repaired beneath the bit. You can usually eyeball this with good accuracy, just make sure you're perfectly centered before you fire up and begin cutting.
4. Set your depth stop on the mill so you do not accidentally go too far through the body and damage the other side of the chamber where the front block connects.
5. Fire up the mill, and drill your hole - use some cutting oil to help clear chips and protect the tool and work. There will only be a little debris unless like me, you had a screw seized in the hole and have to use a carbide bit to drill through it =\.
5. With the 5/16-24 tap inserted into an appropriate tap handle, tap the hole, again using cutting fluid and a chip clearing method (1 revolution forward, and then back half a turn) until through the thickness of the body.
6. Clean up the edges of the hole, both inside and out, with a deburring tool. This will prevent you from slicing the o-rings on the front block when inserted into the body.
7. Wash the entire body with dish soap and water to get rid of all chips and cutting fluid. Dry thoroughly, and reassemble the gun, using a 5/16-24x1/4" cup point set screw in the new hole. This will self-center on the existing hole in the front block, and hold securely. Loctite 242 on the threads is optional.
Here is what you wind up with - a solid mount that you can back out enough to free the front block, while leaving it in the body. You also don't need to remove the whole grip frame to pull the front block, or remove the barb.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/chooie/37b1fdf8.jpg