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View Full Version : help setting up a 2k2


jamrens@comcast.net
04-03-2008, 02:38 PM
i need some good settings for it. has was 2.9 dont want any bouce but i want it fast

pbfrenzy44
04-03-2008, 03:49 PM
take the spring out of the trigger (if there even is one) and adjusting the trigger back further will help a little.

jamrens@comcast.net
04-03-2008, 03:58 PM
i did that i have done the mag mod but i have a fbm wave and i love it i bought a cp sling and i hate it

pbfrenzy44
04-03-2008, 04:05 PM
yea i dont like the cp triggers that much. i love the stock triggers that came on the alias, lasoya 2, and i think most of the gen 3, also on the defiant 2. they're very light, small, and they feel so nice on the gun.

crankwalk
04-04-2008, 12:26 PM
FBM wave is very smooth for a non bearing trigger - I like them as well. If you don't want any bounce leave the debounce at the default 10ms to start with.

rauleetoe
04-09-2008, 10:46 AM
so leaving the trigger on will give it bounce? i just put the trigger back on my gz timmy..and i got a cp trigger as well for four bucks on ebay..im wondering if i keep that particular trigger or not..would you guys rather have that one or a stock 2k2 trigger on it?

jamrens@comcast.net
04-09-2008, 10:47 AM
ilove my fbm

crankwalk
04-09-2008, 11:30 PM
so leaving the trigger on will give it bounce?not sure what you mean here? usually bounce comes from the way the trigger set screws are positioned. If after the initial microswitch "click" there is a lot of post-travel, then this could cause the board to read phantom pulls. I like to set up my triggers so immediately after the click, the stop screw kicks in to eliminate any further pull. Snappy trigger return is critical in this case since I'm not relying on the microswitch pressure to push my trigger back to me - so I leave the spring in personally.

rauleetoe
04-10-2008, 10:38 AM
oh..thats what i meant..as i took the trigger spring out, i posted too fast and didnt review my post,thus i made no sense at all...i kinda like it without the spring..so what you are saying crankwalk is,that i adjust the trigger as close as possible to the microswitch to make it a short trigger pull?
im still kinda new to timmies,ive got two that im slowly but surely restoring,and rebuilding..once i do i may get rid of my 'low end backup' markers..

crankwalk
04-11-2008, 10:15 PM
It doesn't have to be a short trigger pull at all.. the important part is that when the microswitch is tripped, there should be no more travel of the trigger past that. So when the switch clicks, the bottom-most screw (travel stop set sccrew) should hit the frame and cease trigger movement. Personally, using this method is how I've had the best luck minimizing bounce issues.