Humphrey Solenoid - Exploded View

[4N2NR]

You can disassemble, clean, rebuild and reassemble your Humphrey's solenoid if you use care and exercise patience. There are a couple of very small pieces you need to be aware of when taking these apart. In the pictures below you will see a model HEA10F5-GL-101W taken apart. The other models are similar in construction. Pay close attention to the orientation of the body pieces when disassembling. To make reassembly easier for first-timers you can take a pencil and draw a line down the side of the body before you take it apart so that you have something to line up during reassembly. I did not draw a line on this one in the pictures.

NEVER USE DOW 55 TO LUBRICATE YOUR SOLENOID!

A video created by Zack Littell aka zlittell (http://www.intimidatorowners.com/forums/member.php?u=638) here at IOG:
Solenoid maintenance (http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-15193743951329597&hl=en) - good detailed video, compete with barb breakage but it shows how easy it is to remove the broken threaded portion.
*** I do not know which model solenoid is in this video but it appears to not have the 2 small pins ***

When you disassemble you should have 5 screws, 4 body block sections, 3 pistons (or rods), 1 spring, 2 small pins (that fall out easily and usually get lost during disassembly - CAUTION! the solenoid will not work without them), 3 o-rings (1 on bottom (round) & 1 on top (crescent shaped) of manual override button body block and 1 very tiny one on the end cover - see below), (1 spring (wavy) washer in a H040-4E1-48W solenoid) and 1 base plate. It should look like:

http://www.streetextremes.com/images/Paintball/Intimidator/solenoid/solenoid1a.jpg
High Resolution Picture (http://www.streetextremes.com/images/Paintball/Intimidator/solenoid/solenoid1.JPG)


http://www.streetextremes.com/images/Paintball/Intimidator/solenoid/solenoid2a.jpg
High Resolution Picture (http://www.streetextremes.com/images/Paintball/Intimidator/solenoid/solenoid2.JPG)


http://www.streetextremes.com/images/Paintball/Intimidator/solenoid/solenoid3a.jpg
High Resolution Picture (http://www.streetextremes.com/images/Paintball/Intimidator/solenoid/solenoid3.JPG)


These are the small pins that can easily be lost and the body piece they come out of (with the piston that has the spring on it):

http://www.streetextremes.com/images/Paintball/Intimidator/solenoid/solenoidpins1.jpg

And here are the holes that the pins sit in (located in the body block section that has the manual override button on it):

http://www.streetextremes.com/images/Paintball/Intimidator/solenoid/solenoidpins2.jpg

And these are the locations of the 3 o-rings (these pictures are shot through a magnafying glass and from a different solenoid (H040-4E1-48W) so the end cover color and the base plate are different than the rest of the pictures):

http://www.streetextremes.com/images/Paintball/Intimidator/solenoid/oring.jpg

http://www.streetextremes.com/images/Paintball/Intimidator/solenoid/endcoveroring.jpg

http://www.streetextremes.com/images/Paintball/Intimidator/solenoid/crescentoring.jpg


This is the location of the spring washer in a H040-4E1-48W solenoid on the base plate (this pictures is shot through a magnafying glass and from a different solenoid (H040-4E1-48W) than the rest so the base plate shape & color are different than the rest of the pictures). It is wavy and does not sit flat:

http://www.streetextremes.com/images/Paintball/Intimidator/solenoid/springwasher.jpg


And finally, usually when your solenoid "blows" it is this small o-ring that has become unseated (or worse - torn) from the groove in the shaft. I do not know the size/type of o-ring at this time (if someone knows and can share that I'll update this post):

http://www.streetextremes.com/images/Paintball/Intimidator/solenoid/solenoidblowsgasket.jpg

The actual parts names:

http://www.streetextremes.com/images/Paintball/Intimidator/solenoid/solenoidpartnames.jpg

Humphrey Solenoind Valves HEA/HEB and HJC/HJE Series Catalog (PDF File 3.29 mb) (http://www.streetextremes.com/images/Paintball/Intimidator/solenoid/Humphrey_Solenoid-Valves_HEA_HEB_HJC-HJE.pdf)

Humphrey website:

http://www.humphrey-products.com/sites/default/files/HP2012_logo.png (http://www.humphrey-products.com)

NEVER USE DOW 55 TO LUBRICATE YOUR SOLENOID!

[bigbadbubba1337]

Thanks for making this!

[icp-ms]

On the solenoid spool aren't real orings. They are more like disks.

[toolittletoolate]

You need to edit in NEVER USE DOW 55 TO LUBE YOUR NOID!

[bigbadbubba1337]

just oil?

[toolittletoolate]

You can use dow 33, just not 55. You don't want anything to swell in your noid.

[shad0w]

Awesome thread!!!! So can we replace the o-rings/discs???

Oh, and dont forget the tiny orings that are on the blocks. i think there are 2 of them, and they have to match up with the hole when put back together....right? you can see it in the last picture on the noid cap.

[icp-ms]

Yes you can replace them, but I don't know were to get them.
I used a used on from a broken Solenoid to fix another Solenoid and it worked

[shad0w]

hmm. ill call humphreys on monday and see what they say.

[RapperAsInTheGun]

this is great, awesome job exploring the great mysteries of the modern noid!

[icp-ms]

hmm. ill call humphreys on monday and see what they say.

News from Humphrey?

[shad0w]

just spent 30+ minutes in the wait queue waiting for them to answer....ill try again later.

[4N2NR]

I am not 100% positive but I am pretty sure that the Planet Eclipse Spool Shaft O-ring is the same size. PaintballGateway.com (http://paintballgateway.com/plecsospsho4.html) has them.

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/paintballgate_2164_405767645.jpg

[big_daddy_d]

I need the crescent shaped oring

[masterbob]

did we ever find out what size oring or if its an oring is on the steam ie shaft with lots of oring/or some kinda seal?

[4N2NR]

No, I have not found out yet. I never got a response to the email I sent them (Humphrey) asking about the size. If I could find someone with a GEO/GEO 2/GEO 2.1 solenoid (not sure of the make/model used in them) then I could compare the two to see if the PE kit is what's needed.

[Austinhembo]

This has convinced me to never attempt to take apart a solenoid. Thank you.

[masterbob]

its not hard! i did it in less than 5 mins and put it back together and it works fine

[Dray2k]

I have a question. Im a noob so plz dont blast me (maybe a little pun intended). If im correct the noid should click without air hooked up right. So if its not clicking would that be a power issue? Would i need to disassemble the whole noid and address orings or am i looking for something else? Im workin with a good board and battery.

[rye]

I have a question. Im a noob so plz dont blast me (maybe a little pun intended). If im correct the noid should click without air hooked up right. So if its not clicking would that be a power issue? Would i need to disassemble the whole noid and address orings or am i looking for something else? Im workin with a good board and battery.

not blasting you but if you are asking you should not be taking the solenoid apart as you need to spend sometime reading to understand how a solenoid works. You cannot repair something if you do not understand how it functions.

[Dray2k]

No worries. Right now it doesnt work anyway. It is something i could try to sell for $10 or i could try to fix it. I understand what ur sayn and this has registered in my brain already. I was looking at the pictures and figured its probably not somethin i should get in to. However i was curious about my thinking on the topic not whether i would b able to handle it. I.e.- if with power and no air the solenoid is not clicking would that be a power issue? So in that sense it was kinda a blast since u told me what i should do rather than answer the question. A simple yes or no wouldnt have been a blast.

[rye]

ok then.

yes.

[Dray2k]

Thank you