rasengan13
06-28-2011, 09:45 PM
Hey guys. I finished my 2k2 Lasoya project a few months ago and thought I'd share a few details about how I put this thing together.
It started with a purchase of a 2k2 Lasoya body and LED frame from a couple of sellers here on IOG. I thought the assembly would go as smoothly as screwing the frame to the body. But no, the sellers regretted to inform me of a few major flaws in their products. First, the front frame threads of the Lasoya body were retapped for a bigger thread, most likely because of stripped threads. Using the bigger screw was a "no no" for me because it was too big for the frame hole. Meanwhile, the LED frame ASA threads used 10-32 inserts on 5/16-24 threaded holes. I would normally be fine on the inserts as long as they worked but only 2 holes had inserts! Also the inserts were on the farthest ends of the 4 holes and was not compatible for use with any common rail available.
Here is what the bottom of the frame looked:
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g245/KuyaGJ/Paintball/IMG_20110309_080626.jpg
I don't know if that was standard for a few LED frames but the anno looked liked it was original and came like that from the factory.
I initially looked at Ace and other hardware stores for inserts I could use and even asked a local pro shop and they did not have what I was looking for. So to fix the frame problem I decided to create my own insert. I figured out the thread size by inserting the grub screw used for the ram sleeve. I wasn't sure if it would fit at first but it worked.
Now as for the body, I wanted to fix the threading and revert it back to 10-32 threads. To do that, the most common method was to use a helicoil. I did not have access to someone who had one and didn't want to spend money on a kit that I'll only use once. So to fix that, I found that I can use the same insert from the frame for the body. They both used the same 10-32 threading. So I made 3 inserts.
The inserts were made out of aluminum since they are easier to cut than steel. I don't have a shop that has the proper tools for steel so aluminum was a safe bet. The plan for the inserts were to tap the rods for 10-32 threading and use a die to create 5/16-24 threads on the outside. I ordered 5/16" 6061 aluminum rods online and started by drilling the holes to tap for 10-32 threads on a lathe. I drilled into both ends of the rod so that I had two flat sides to use. I used a dremel to cut the sleeves so I needed a flat side that will sit flush with the ends. After tapping I used a 5/6-24 die cutter to create the exterior threads. I cut two sleeves out of one side and just one on the other. I tried to keep the cuts as clean as possible but my lack of experience in dremel cutting kept me from that.
Here is the rod after threading the inside and outside:
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g245/KuyaGJ/Paintball/IMG_20110410_164615.jpg
Here are the sleeves after cutting:
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g245/KuyaGJ/Paintball/IMG_20110410_171735.jpg
They are uneven but they fit well in the frame holes.
I created slots in the sleeves to make it easier to screw into the frame. I used red loctite to secure each sleeve. I screwed them in until they were as flush as possible against the surface of the frame.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g245/KuyaGJ/Paintball/IMG_20110410_173517.jpg
Now that the frame was done I moved to the body. I drilled and tapped the front frame screw area to accept the 5/16-24 threaded sleeve I made. I also tapped it for an alias block and drilled and tapped the ram sleeve set screw hole for the Juit blast mod.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g245/KuyaGJ/Paintball/IMG_20110417_180807.jpg
The threaded sleeve I used needed to be sealed so I cut off an end of a 10-32 ss screw and used red loctite to hold it in place. The ss needed to be cut anyway to fit the thickness of LED frame to the body. I measured out how far to seal the cut screw piece in the sleeve so that there's enough threads to hold the frame. I dremeled slots again so to make it easier to thread into the body. Red loctite for permanent sealing. I positioned the sleeve right under the furthest part of the curve where the ram sleeve slides in. I used JB weld to fill in the space and make sure the threads are fully sealed. I filed down the rest of the JB weld to smooth out the curves after it was set and dry.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g245/KuyaGJ/Paintball/IMG_20110421_083206.jpg
Now after assembly here is the final product:
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g245/KuyaGJ/Paintball/IMG_20110507_121626.jpg
Updated with new grips!
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g245/KuyaGJ/Paintball/IMG_20110713_091538.jpg
In general I fixed the marker in a way that BLAST might approach it with the sleeves, except I used aluminum instead of steel. It should hold for a good while and maintainable. Thanks for reading.
Questions, concerns, opinions? Feel free to let me know.
It started with a purchase of a 2k2 Lasoya body and LED frame from a couple of sellers here on IOG. I thought the assembly would go as smoothly as screwing the frame to the body. But no, the sellers regretted to inform me of a few major flaws in their products. First, the front frame threads of the Lasoya body were retapped for a bigger thread, most likely because of stripped threads. Using the bigger screw was a "no no" for me because it was too big for the frame hole. Meanwhile, the LED frame ASA threads used 10-32 inserts on 5/16-24 threaded holes. I would normally be fine on the inserts as long as they worked but only 2 holes had inserts! Also the inserts were on the farthest ends of the 4 holes and was not compatible for use with any common rail available.
Here is what the bottom of the frame looked:
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g245/KuyaGJ/Paintball/IMG_20110309_080626.jpg
I don't know if that was standard for a few LED frames but the anno looked liked it was original and came like that from the factory.
I initially looked at Ace and other hardware stores for inserts I could use and even asked a local pro shop and they did not have what I was looking for. So to fix the frame problem I decided to create my own insert. I figured out the thread size by inserting the grub screw used for the ram sleeve. I wasn't sure if it would fit at first but it worked.
Now as for the body, I wanted to fix the threading and revert it back to 10-32 threads. To do that, the most common method was to use a helicoil. I did not have access to someone who had one and didn't want to spend money on a kit that I'll only use once. So to fix that, I found that I can use the same insert from the frame for the body. They both used the same 10-32 threading. So I made 3 inserts.
The inserts were made out of aluminum since they are easier to cut than steel. I don't have a shop that has the proper tools for steel so aluminum was a safe bet. The plan for the inserts were to tap the rods for 10-32 threading and use a die to create 5/16-24 threads on the outside. I ordered 5/16" 6061 aluminum rods online and started by drilling the holes to tap for 10-32 threads on a lathe. I drilled into both ends of the rod so that I had two flat sides to use. I used a dremel to cut the sleeves so I needed a flat side that will sit flush with the ends. After tapping I used a 5/6-24 die cutter to create the exterior threads. I cut two sleeves out of one side and just one on the other. I tried to keep the cuts as clean as possible but my lack of experience in dremel cutting kept me from that.
Here is the rod after threading the inside and outside:
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g245/KuyaGJ/Paintball/IMG_20110410_164615.jpg
Here are the sleeves after cutting:
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g245/KuyaGJ/Paintball/IMG_20110410_171735.jpg
They are uneven but they fit well in the frame holes.
I created slots in the sleeves to make it easier to screw into the frame. I used red loctite to secure each sleeve. I screwed them in until they were as flush as possible against the surface of the frame.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g245/KuyaGJ/Paintball/IMG_20110410_173517.jpg
Now that the frame was done I moved to the body. I drilled and tapped the front frame screw area to accept the 5/16-24 threaded sleeve I made. I also tapped it for an alias block and drilled and tapped the ram sleeve set screw hole for the Juit blast mod.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g245/KuyaGJ/Paintball/IMG_20110417_180807.jpg
The threaded sleeve I used needed to be sealed so I cut off an end of a 10-32 ss screw and used red loctite to hold it in place. The ss needed to be cut anyway to fit the thickness of LED frame to the body. I measured out how far to seal the cut screw piece in the sleeve so that there's enough threads to hold the frame. I dremeled slots again so to make it easier to thread into the body. Red loctite for permanent sealing. I positioned the sleeve right under the furthest part of the curve where the ram sleeve slides in. I used JB weld to fill in the space and make sure the threads are fully sealed. I filed down the rest of the JB weld to smooth out the curves after it was set and dry.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g245/KuyaGJ/Paintball/IMG_20110421_083206.jpg
Now after assembly here is the final product:
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g245/KuyaGJ/Paintball/IMG_20110507_121626.jpg
Updated with new grips!
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g245/KuyaGJ/Paintball/IMG_20110713_091538.jpg
In general I fixed the marker in a way that BLAST might approach it with the sleeves, except I used aluminum instead of steel. It should hold for a good while and maintainable. Thanks for reading.
Questions, concerns, opinions? Feel free to let me know.