well this blows

[masterbob]

ok guys ive tryed everything besides sending it to blast. my darq wont shoot more than rolling 10 feet. ive rebult the lpr hpr and replaced every oring in the gun and it wont even begin to shoot till my hpr is at 250 and my lpr is over 110
dwell at 6 like it should be nothing else has been changed from factory.

what do you guys think.
oh its got the Proficiency engine in it as well

[bigbadbubba1337]

I'm not too familiar with the Marq line, but it kind of sounds like a weak noid. Push the button on it to see if it cycles normal with stock settings on the board and regs. If it shoots, it's the noid.

[masterbob]

thats what im thinking

[gamer565]

Make sure the back holes on the engine line up with the holes in the inside of the body.

[the incubus]

If you are Technically savvy enough, I'd suggest you rebuild your solenoid. Sounds like it may have a pinched O-ring or perhaps is in dire need of some lubing. Also check out what gamer suggested above.

[Raymius]

Clean your noid. I would bet you have someting stuck in there. Same thing happend on my marq and found some debris in the noid.

DON'T LOSE THE SOLENOID PINS.

[masterbob]

Ill just buy a new noid

[masterbob]

Ill just buy a new noid I suck at rebuilding them

[the incubus]

Dude... It's SIMPLE to do! LOL

Just remove the screws and place everything in-line and take a pic if needed to remember how everything goes back together. The most difficult part are the tiny magnetized pins. Everything else is literally jut like servicing your Ram in the Sleeve. Just slide the the Ram out and use the twirled up corner of a paper towel to clean out the interior well and then relube sparingly before turning to the Ram which will require you to remove the O-rings for proper cleaning. Once done, Lube the O-ring grooves and then install the O-rings, lubing sparingly before re-inserting into the half built solenoid. Be sure the Magnetized pins are in place and close her up.

DONE!

Shouldn't take more than 15-20 minutes at the most.

[masterbob]

Id like to have a spare in case something goes wrong

[bigbadbubba1337]

There is an exploded view of one in the stickies I think if that would helo you.

[masterbob]

well i looked for it and no dice link is in active if any one has it please let me know and let crank know so he can get it fixed
thanks

[bigbadbubba1337]

Here you go man:

http://www.intimidatorowners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8071

[masterbob]

haha i missed that one some how the one in the sticky is messed up. thank you sir !!!!

[masterbob]

ok well i took the noid apart im hoping i put it back together right http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j244/chrisk2010/photobucket-15117-1319085563868.jpg that was in side the noid. its apart of an oring :facepalm:

[masterbob]

got air and tested it today that oring piece was the issue the thing shoot great now i just need to find the right balance in the regs

[the incubus]

Now don't you feel better for having HANDLED this yourself? You just saved $50+ too and while I've always kept a spare noid with me, I have never needed to call it up for active duty. LOL

[masterbob]

i bought one to keep as a spare. and now that i know i can fix the noids i feel as thou ill hopefuly never have to replace them again lol

[the incubus]

Seriously speaking, the ONLY way I have seen a Solenoid fail is via the controller board frying/dying and even still I've only seen it 4 times over the years. I've bought Noids people thought were DOA for $5 and simply dismantled them to bare bits, cleaned and rebuilt them and they worked just like new. I've done this to build 10 of the Timmys I've had/have over the years.

As it stands, Noids are very robust and fairly bulletproof. Usually a proper rebuild will remedy any issue one may present.

[masterbob]

i wish i would have known how simple it was over the years it would have saved me and friends some money

[the incubus]

I understand. Unfortunately this urban Myth about Noids being this intensely complex component really took off, and thanks to a few knuckleheads losing the Magnetizing pins or using the wrong lube and/or not remembering how everything goes back together, really left the impression on a vast number of people that they require a qualified tech to work on them. Really, everything outside the electronics in any Paintball Marker is mechanical to its very core and anyone who can perform basic maintenance on their own Marker has the knowhow to work on and tech most every component therein so long as they take their time and observe things as the delve deeper into a Marker's inner workings.

[masterbob]

Yea I've relized that now. Im glad there was some one who took the time to make an exploded view. And for you guys giving me crap till I finaly did it my self lol. Thanks for the help guys again lol