Eigenram help

[BloodLustAC]

Alright, I just recieved an Eigenram from s4mm4n16 on here, and looked up some instructions online for installation. They were pretty vague, though, and basically said to take the old ram out, lube the Eigen, and slide it in.

I did exactly that, but the bolt is sitting a little too far into the breach to the point where a ball can't enter now. He sent me a spring with it, shaped sorta like a cone, not sure if that has anything to do with it?

Basically I just need some installation help, because the directions I found weren't very good.

Also, some settings ideas if anyone knows.

Thanks!

[crankwalk]

The spring that is installed on the poppet wouldn't have anything to do with the bolt positioning. Do you have an adjusable ram cap? If so, have you tried backing it out some?

[BloodLustAC]

Ah okay didn't think of that, I'm pretty new to Timmies. So I should just adjust it a little so the bolt is barely visible through the feedneck, right?

And about the spring, is it something that I need to replace to get the Eigenram working? Instructions didn't mention a spring at all, not really sure what to do with it.

Is that all that I need to do for the gun to shoot with the new ram?

Thanks crankwalk.

[crankwalk]

yes correct :tup: - back out the screw on your adjustable ram cap (don't back out the ram cap itself - just checking!) so you can see just a bit of the bolt when looking into the breech. 1/16" is what's usually recommended.

[crankwalk]

whoops, and to answer your question on the spring - it is included because its a more lightweight spring to help the new lightweight ram open the poppet easier. sometimes people need it and sometimes its not needed. Try it without the spring first and see if you can get a proper velocity with just the stock spring. Otherwise you'd need to pull the front block off and swap the spring thats sitting on the poppet with the spring you were sent.

[BloodLustAC]

Alright I unscrewed the cap a bit so that bolt sits far back enough, but there's a gap betweent the cap and body so it looks a little funny. Is that normal though? I don't want to air up the gun and have the ram fly out and hit me or something.

Hopefully I'll be able to tell if I need that spring or not, I don't have a chrono so I'll hafta see if i notice it shooting much lower.

Thanks for all the help though!

[crankwalk]

yes correct :tup: - back out the screw on your adjustable ram cap (don't back out the ram cap itself - just checking!) Hello, don't back out the ram cap itself - if you have an adjustable one, there should be a hex head screw in the middle of the cap (usually 1/8" hex key) and you can back that out. If unsure, please take a picture of your ram cap so we can let you know if its adjustable or not. Thanks.

[BloodLustAC]

Unless the screw is just stuck, it did the same thing as backing out the ram cap. It's a Hybrid, pretty sure it's adjustable. I did dry fire it and it worked but maybe not the best idea then.

EDIT: Nevermind, the screw was just stuck a little in there, I did it now and it works. Wow I should read more thoroughly, I was in a rush =/ Sorry, I'm not familiar with Timmies yet like I said so thanks for your help again.

[crankwalk]

no problem! I'm glad you got it squared away :)

[BloodLustAC]

Alright here's a new one that I need help with. I put in the Eigen but I ended up needing the light poppet spring, so I took the gun apart (for the first time without instructions, mind you) and suprisingly I was able to find out what a poppet was and replaced the spring. I put the gun back together and backed out all both regs so I could attempt to tune it, but once I raised the LPR a bit and got air into the gun there seems to be a big leak coming from the guage. I opened the gun up and I'm 95% sure it's not the front block barb, really seems like it's coming from behind the guage.

Could anything I did have caused that leak? Lopez said on PBN it might be the front block o-rings but I'd rather not rip the gun apart again before I'm sure. I tried to tighten the guage but it seems stuck on, so if anybody could help some more that would be great. Thanks.

[crankwalk]

Yes the barb may have broken when you removed/reinstalled the hose so you could have access to the poppet. but you really are going to have to pinpoint the source so try airing it up with the clamshell half removed so you can feel around and see where the air is coming from.

[BloodLustAC]

Yeah that's what I tried before, and I really feel no air coming from the barb. I hope it's not the barb, because the hose is really stuck on there... it was hell taking it off the first time =/

The air is coming from around the guage as far as I can tell. Anything other than the barb that could do it?

[crankwalk]

hmm - well maybe lopez was onto something when he mentioned front block o-rings.

if you want to rule out the gauge, pull it off, wrap it in teflon tape and reinstall it. then see if the leak is still there

[BloodLustAC]

That was next on my list, I just hafta find a way to get the damned thing off. Strap wrench didn't work, so I've pretty much lost all hope. Thanks though i'm gonna keep trying and check those o-rings.

[crankwalk]

Is it a mini gauge? if so, use an adjustable wrench, grip it to the flat parts around the mini gauge face/casing

http://www.hardwarestore.com/media/product/259861_front200.jpg

if its the stock Ashcroft gauge then use a 7/16" box-end wrench on the brass collar behind the face

http://content.answers.com/main/content/wp/en-commons/thumb/d/df/250px-Maulringschluessel.jpg

[BloodLustAC]

Got the guage off with something like the first wrench, yeah it's a mini. I put a ton of teflon on and screwed it back in, it still leaks... so now I have the gun apart with the front block off, but the front block barb just came right off still attatched to the hose when I pulled it. the threads seem ok, but I can't get the hose off now so I don't know what to do. Any tips for taking it off? This is frustrating.

[crankwalk]

alright that sounds like i was getting at earlier - the barb is broken (at the threads).. you probably pulled out the top "half" of the threads and perhaps the bottom "half" is still in the front block. since it was already split in the middle that's where your air leak was coming from. this usually results in uneven pressure being applied to the barb when removing the hose, or just from a brittle barb. so take a flashlight and look in the barb hole on your front block and see if there's any kind of brass left in there. if so you're going to have to remove it using something tiny like a jeweler's screwdriver

the only for from removing a hose from a barb is pull hard.. and straight (not at an angle)

what helps sometimes is to CAREFULLY use a lighter to heat up the hose where it attaches to the barb.. heat will make the hose more malleable and will come off easier.

[BloodLustAC]

Alright before I put this gun back together, I loctited the the barb threads, let it sit overnight, and noticed the hose wasn't cut too straight so I evened it off. It doesn't cover the whole front part of the barb though, I'm not sure if that's a bad thing (there's a little gap). I put the microfiber washer on that side instead since I wasn't using it by the threads, just to cover the cap.. any point to that/is it ok?

Thanks for all your help as usual.

[crankwalk]

hmm I don't see how that would hurt but it probably won't help seal any air. you'll know if the hose is too short if there's a leak. you try airing it up?

[BloodLustAC]

Nope about to put it back together now, I have a feeling I'll be back with some problem shortly though =/

Might be getting some hoses and barbs from ya very soon ;) do you sell the stock fittings/hose? I can't afford to replace them all with High-flows.

[crankwalk]

ahhh.. well good luck! about barbs, just drop me a PM